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When assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble place securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.